Mallorca, Spain: The ultimate adventure playground.

I had no idea what to expect when arriving in Mallorca that November Day in 2023. I was coming to an end of my three-week planned Portugal/Spain itinerary and had just canceled my return flight back to the US. I had already covered many of the major Iberian Peninsula hotspots; from Madrid to Porto; Lisbon to Seville; I even made stop at Tenerife in the Canaries before continuing onto Valencia. When my friend who had met me halfway through my journey had to stick to her original return-home plans and leave me in Barcelona, the forty minute flight from there to Palma de Mallorca seemed like the next logical destination by default of my trek eastward. The fact that I had no real plans yet was frightening and comforting all at the same time. I was ready to settle in a bit after having followed such a structured itinerary for the past few weeks, but had also just learned that Spanish wasn’t even official language on the island, which sent me into a slight panic after my recent, embarrassing, attempts to speak Catalan.

The only true other reason Mallorca had sparked my interest was due to the fact that I had a childhood friend who had spent some time in Palma a few years back teaching English. I actually had talked to him about a temporary relocation to Spain back in 2021 when I was working remotely for another job, but that darn Covid thing was still happenintheg and Spain said “No Americans.” So really Mallorca had been a dream put on hold for nearly two years now and at last, it was the time to finally fulfill it. It also turned out that my friend still had Mallorcan connections all these years later when I asked him if he had housing ideas for me. Lo and behold, he put me in touch with someone renting out a room in her apartment, and for dirt cheap in comparison to the ridiculous California rent I had been paying the months prior. It felt like a sign. Along with still being overly excited that I can get a flight there for less than 20 euros. Okay, sold. 

I remember looking out the budget airline plane window on that short flight across the Mediterranean and thinking “Wow, I am really getting a lot more than I bargained for.” I don’t think I had even googled a single picture of Mallorca before arriving, but I sure as heck liked what I saw when this mysterious little island came into view; Rugged mountains speckled with lush greenery; turquoise waters adorned with white-sand beaches; terracotta-roofed villages nestled amongst terraced vineyards; rolling hills sprawled with olive trees. It all quite literally took my breath away. “Wait, this is where I’ll be living for the next… well, who knows how long…” I thought to myself, “But I think I’ll be staying here for a while.”

And that “while” ended up being nearly three-months, despite my greatest efforts for that while to really be a “forever” but that’s a story for another blog post. That majestic island I first saw out my tiny plane window that day came to be many things for me, but one of the most treasured is the ultimate adventure playground that is Mallorca. According to Strava, I put on over 600 kilometers (Yes, I will convert to the local unit of measure for the sake of this post) of running and hiking in those short three months. That included solo morning runs along the Palma Waterfront, running groups that met on a weekly basis from the city center, long run adventures at destinations all over the island and hikes (because we runners all need some cross training) along the coast and through those quaint villages. In all those steps, I still had hardly even scratched the surface, but I did cover enough ground to at least share some of my favorites along with their accompanying recovery treats - organized by distance from Palma.

Within Running Distance from Palma:

Palma City Loop

Starting from the historic Palma city center, this route will wind you through a maze of narrow city streets, over the Torrent de sa Riera, and into the vibrant Santa Catalina neighborhood. Here, you’ll come upon bustling streets of colorful houses, trendy boutiques and lively cafes. After getting a taste of Palma’s contemporary scene, you'll be treated to stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea, passing by mega-yatch infested marinas, and Parc de la Mar where you'll catch glimpses of the iconic Cathedral of Santa Maria and Royal Palace of La Almudaina. The final destination of this run is my favorite little breakfast spot, Ca'n Joan de s’Aigo. Treat yourself to an authentic Mallorcan breakfast of ensaimadas and a sobrassada bocadillo - but be sure to come back to some of the other refreshment spots you’ll pass along your way. Here are some more honorable mentions:

Santa Catalina:

• Santal - great terrace and cozy indoor seating; perfect spot no matter the weather.

• El Perrito - pet friendly café located right in the heart of Santa Catalina.

• Mama Carmen’s - quiet nook for a specialty coffee and getting some work done.

• Santina - hits the spot if you're missing American-style brunch or iced coffee.

• NAP - A Neapolitan pizza joint with great lunch specials and happy hour deals

• Bar Azul - outdoor only seating with amazing Spanish omelets and sangria by the jar.

• Mercat de Santa Catalina - city market renowned for its fresh produce and seafood.

• Luna - the go-to disco night club for when you really need to celebrate after a run.

• Cuba Bar - hotel with basement dancefloor and full-bar rooftop.

• Lab - Swanky cocktail bar with an intimate atmosphere.

• The Soho Bar - Fun bar with video and table games.

• Earth Yoga - large, bright studio catered towards expats.

• Yoga House Mallorca - cozy studio with classes taught in Spanish
  

Old Town Palma:

• Mistral - simply the best coffee and cafe terrace in Palma.

• Rapha - minimalist cycling shop and coffeehouse in the heart of oldtown.

• Batx - co-working café with delicious zumos, coffees and food menus.

• El Grano de Cafe - quiet café in the heart of the city with great siesta specials.

• Molta Barra - tapas Tuesdays! Be ready for a surprise when ordering red vermouth.

• Bar Espanya - best croquettes, patatas bravas and Spanish tortilla. Don't skip dessert.

• Rivareno - The BEST gelato in Palma. Get the white chocolate dipped waffle cone with pistachio.

Angry Pablo Run Club

What started as a cycling club now hosts a weekly social run for locals and expats alike. The group meets every Friday morning at 7:30 am at Plumo Coffee in the Palma City Center. From here, the group makes a 5K loop out to Portitxol and back, where a warm cup of coffee is patiently awaiting the social runners return.  As Plumo is Angry Pablo’s meeting point and they cater specifically to the runners after each run, I feel that to mention any other treats along this route would be doing an injustice to the delicacy that Plumo’s coffee is. And we of course wouldn’t want to make Pablo anymore angry. If you need a change from the classic cafe con leche, the matcha latte and seasonal smoothies paired with post run banter shared amongst all your new running friends are sure to kick off your Friday on the right foot. Follow more of Angry Pablo's journey here.

Yachties Run Wild - All Girls Running Group

The first running group I encountered here my first week in Palma. I had reached out on a different Facebook thread a few days prior to my arrival looking for a group to run with when once i settled in. A kind gal replied to my post and invited me to join an already existing, all girls run club called “Yachtie’s Run Wild” In case you haven’t seen below deck and have no idea what a Yachtie is - basically they’re a bunch of people that found a way to hack normal life and live and work on these super yachts of luxury and travel the world while doing so. Having never even been on what I would consider a yacht ever in my life, I was hesitant to join, but after the first meeting - all those social anxieties washed away. The girls were all so nice and we found conversation topics other than mega yacht drama to connect on - though I was always so entertained hearing these stories and getting a glimpse into a world I didn’t think was actually a reality. And it turns out these yachties were a lot more down to earth than the HBO drama series led me to believe they would be. I mean, we are still all runner’s here after all. The yachties girls meet every Wednesday at 6 pm at Valledero or Ventura Harbor Bar and also head out to the waterfront for a 5K loop. Instead of coffee at this finish point, a boozy beverage (or non-alcoholic bar drink of choice) is the post-run treat. While this group is exclusively for the ladies, there have been rumors of a “mixed Monday” run starting up soon. But that’s not all, the Yachties also organize Saturday Pilates in the park, weekend 10K’s and of course seasonal brunches. I can’t recommend this positive community of girl power enough. Here's their socials to stay up to date on the latest events:

• Instagram

• Facebook

• Strava

Palma City Center - Northbound

This route will lead you to a lesser explored area of Palma. Running north from the always busy Estación Intermodal, you’ll stumble upon Parc de Ses Estacions, one of the few city parks that offers a bit of green space in the heart of the urban bustle. As you traverse the park's winding paths, you'll pass by towering palm trees and vibrant flower beds, providing a refreshing backdrop for your run. Continuing on Carrer de Jacint Verdaguer, you will eventually hit a paved pedestrian and bike trail that will lead you all the past the Ma-13 Highway. This was my turnaround point for a lazy Sunday run, but there is the option to take this trail well into the central island mountain valley. I’m mostly sharing this route thought to recommend the coolest restaurant experience I’ve even been too that just so happens to be nearby. For special occasions, like perhaps completing a bucket list Mallorcan race, Clandestí Taller Gastronòmic is more than just a nice dinner out - it’s an innovative showcooking experience you won’t forget.

Palma Waterfront - West Bound

When running in Palma, avoiding the marina as part of your route is nearly impossibly and quite honestly irresistible. Especially these sunrise runs. Starting out in the morning darkness is no concern with how lit the city of Palma is - especially to Santa Catalina neighborhood. Heading southwest along the waterfront however may not me the go-to route for most runners, but it you can make it around the less scenic Portopi shipyard past the military base, you’ll be greeted with one of the most famous beaches in Palma, Cala Major. The King of Spain actually has a summer palace here, fun fact for you, just in case your Spanish dreams weren’t already big enough. Unlike the more popular eastbound route, this direction won’t be without hills. To be fair, there is just about as much descent as there is ascent. That’s something the joints can all agree upon at least. While you enjoy those gentle rollers, take sometime to pick out your future night-out spots, dining locations or prime sunset viewing point. Here’s some suggestions:

• Can’ Blanc - Central meetup point for waterside drinks

• Social Room - Waterfront nightclub with terrace.

• Hogans - Popular bar with classic bar food.

• Shamrock Palma - Traditional Irish style pub.

• Three Lions - Dive bar with live music.

• Porto Pi shopping - Large shopping center with various store and dinning options.

• Cala major- The King's beach.

Palma Waterfront - Eastbound

Running eastbound along the waterfront from Palma city center to Cala Estancia will clock you about 6 miles on the Garmin or well over 10K if you're tracking with an apple watch in kilometers. I found the Garmin/Apple disparity to be quite large amongst my metric-system, Apple-loving runner friends. In my three months time I was able to get two Garmin converts. As a token of my appreciation, I did change my units of measure and language to match mis amigos during my time in Spain. But regardless of how you're tracking the distance, or if you're even keeping score at all, this route is one that continually begs you to explore just one mile (or kilometer) more. Dotted with private calas, sandy beaches, grassy parks, and endless cafes, each steps brings a new site to see, all while keeping you on a well-marked and paved seaside path. Some favorite spots worth the return trip, or an extended water break:

• Cafè Bar Es Vaixell - amazing llonguets and vermouth on a sunny waterfront patio

• Platja de Can Pere Antoni - the main beach in Palma. Surf-able on windy winter days!

• Es Carnatge - cliffy nature preserve section of the route with unique change of terrain.

• Yoga Del Mar - studio offering indoor and outdoor classes for a post-run stretch

Portopi - Punta des Grells

Oh all the stumble-upons in Palma, you never let me down but this one might have been an all time favorite. Start westbound from Palma city center, running along the classically beautiful marina, if you turn a sharp left at the Porto Pi round about, you’re in for a treat. You'll need to sprint up the slight hill past the naval base (trust me, it's worth it), and then you'll see a fence on the right-hand side of the road. Hop over it. You can do it. See that wooden stair case, leading into the crystal clear blue water? You have arrive at the most underrated cala nearest to Palma, Punta des Grells. Take all the time you need here to sit with the views, scramble across the seaside cliffs, jump in for a dip. If you pause your Garmin, no one will know you took an hour long rest stop here. Disfrusta.

Within Public Transportation Distance from Palma:

Soller to Port de Soller

I completed this hike on Thanksgiving day - my first time ever being out of the US for my favorite holiday - so I needed a good distraction to take my mind of the fact that I would not be stuffing my face with turkey and pumpkin pie. This hike was exactly it. I took the bus from the Palma city center and was dropped off just outside the cute seaside town of Port de Soller. From here I played a little bit of All Trails Roulette as I wandered from path to path, passing through neighborhood streets, fincas, seaside cliffs and pine-tree forests until I made a loop back down to Soller Playa. Even on this brisk November day, the afternoon sun was still inviting enough to lay out across the sand for a short break. I continued onward to my next destination, which was the village of Soller, not to be confused with Port de Soller. The two are connected by a nearly 6 mile trail, which is all the while scenic, yet flat enough to be a decent running route. I took my time getting between the two Sollers however, slowly snapping pictures of the orange trees, goats and historic tram that leads into the Soller Village center. At the end of my day's long journey, I treated myself to a nice plate of Pasta at Sa Granja underneath the bell tower of the beautiful Església de Sant Bartomeu de Sóller, and determined that a solo thanksgiving in Spain wasn't so bad after all.

Sesetca

Starting from bus stop across from the Hotel Continental, cross the street and hop a fence or two to reach the trail head. Once on the trail, you’ll come across multiple ruin sites, sea views and even a religious shrine carved into the cliffside. Eventually you’ll reach a paved road that will take you down to the village of Sesteca. An adorable little adela that is literally impossible to avoid passing through when continuing along the trail. You’ll climb some stairs up, down and around the terracotta roofed houses until, at least, you’ll reach the Cala. I did this hike in November, on not necessarily the warmest day - and the waves crashing against the on shore boulders were not calm to say the least. Yet, my hiking partner convince me it would be worth the jump from the tiny little boat dock into the torrential water. It was - freezing, but refreshing. The Spanish sun warmed us back up quickly. To return to the trail head in a loop, you’ll have to hike back up the paved road then cut through some forest trails a bit until you reach the main road again. You’ll pass by an old church just before completing the loop, perfect for watching the sunset and resting your legs around the long journey. 

Esporles to Valldemossa

This route from Esporles to Valldemossa is the perfect little day trip, just a 20 minute bus ride from Palma. One of my favorite things about Mallorca is that I never hesitated to hike solo if I was ever really itching to explore a new route and couldn't get anyone to tag-along on a weekday morning. The island is so safe; in terms of crime, certainly, but also considering the fact that all the wildlife is nearly harmless; no bears, mountain lions or poisonous snakes, just maybe the occasional goat. (Verdict is still out about the Chupacabras though). I loved this newfound sense of security in comparison to the US. Best of all, I almost always had cell service with my Verizon International Data Plan incase anything were to happen. This route starts right from the Esporles bus stop then meanders through some classic Mallorcan village neighborhoods and olive tree groves, all while offering continuous mountain views. Eventually the route leads through a more wooden area and will require quite the elevation gain to ascend the mountain side. From the top of the peak, you'll be greeted with panoramic sea views and lush mountain valleys. The descent into Valledmosa is where your knees might start to feel it, but when you make it to the infamous Ca'n Molinas in the heart of the iconic island village and sink your teeth into that coca de patata, you'll be glad you didn't quit. Spend as much time as you would like wandering through the picturesque town afterwards. There's tons of restaurants and shops to poke around in. Buses are frequent from Valldemosa back into Palma, and just long enough for a 25 minute post day-trip snooze.

Palma Nova to Magaluf

I'll admit I took advantage of a moto ride offer to Palma Nova to start this run, but the entire Palma Nova-Magaluf area, more well known for its party scene, is easily accessible by public transportation as well. But don't let the rowdy reputation of these beach towns keep you thinking that this place is only reserved for nightlight. In fact, Palma Nova to Magaluf is the perfect out and back running route with ample beachside boardwalks, easily mapping a the path for you. Though you will have to cut through the Torrenova neighborhood to connect the two beaches, you'll never be without a view, especially if you push beyond where the boardwalk ends. Here you will find a dirt trails that weaves along the seaside cliffs. You could take the trail all the way to Cala Vinyes, though it is not well maintained making it difficult to weave through the overgrown trees eveloping much of the route. My running partner and I were feeling a little to competitive with our times and distances for this run to slow it down too much to do so this journey, but looping the route twice got us the 12.5 miles we needed to call it good for the weekend long run.

Santanyi

This was quite the public transportation journey, but totally do-able and completely worth it. I feel like I say that a lot, but honestly whoever finishes a run a says, wow I wish I wouldn't have done that? No one! The discomfort is always worth the sense of accomplishment. That's how I felt with this early morning Saturday wake up that I really can not take any of the credit for an owe all the planning to my friend who accompanied me this brisk Mallorcan winter morning. The combination of the morning frost and low tourist season left us with the most tranquil morning long run. Rolling hills through olive groves, white sand beaches, sleepy fishing villages alongside incomprehensibly clear blue water - it was something out of a dream. And perfectly timed to complete our 11.5 mile loop to catch the Santantyi Market, which runs every Wednesday and Sunday from 9am-2pm in the Santanyi Plaza Mayor. By 11 am the town had come alive with shoppers perusing the large variety of markets stalls stocked with local produce and handmade crafts. We grabbed seat at a cafe Ca Na Pou in the heart of it all for some recovery liquids (I really felt the need to order a coffee, orange juice and water trifecta) and caught some live outdoor music as we searched for a Sobrassada Bocadillo spot. We finally indulged on the sunny terrace of Terra Origens to round out the perfect Mallorcan morning before catching our bus home.

Sa Porrassa to Camp de Mar

This is a great route to change the vibes up a bit and experience of bit of inland Mallorca. Starting from the Sa Porrassa bus stop, right outside the waterpark, hop on the bike path and head north towards Autopista de Ponent. From here a nice black top paved path will wind you through the mountain valley of western Mallorca - passing by old windmills and modern city parks. Around mile 5, the path disappears and you'll be forced to take the highway shoulder for a bit. Don't worry though, there is a concert barrier and at least this part is downhill into the cute beach town of Paguera. Continuing west towards Cala Fornells is where "la cuesta me cuesta" became my new favorite Spanish phrase. Those hills could kill. Again, worth the views over looking the sea without a doubt! But getting to the top will not be without cost. Running westward just a bit further will get you to Camp de Mar, another quaint beach town, infamous for its "floating" restaurant S'Illeta. In January, however, most of Camp de Mar is shut down - but that shouldn't stop you some taking a post run cold plunge while you wait to catch the bus just outside of Golf de Andratx back into town.

Deia

Start this hike from the Deia town center and head towards the sea. Accessible by bus, which is probably the best option considering the lack of parking in this quaint little village. We were lucky enough to find some moto parking (island hack if you’re brave enough) and were surprised to find a carnival festival going on in the park near the trail head. After watching the cute skits and costumes, we headed down the hill towards Cala Deia. Here you’ll hike down a rugged mountain valley path until you reach the beach. From the beach, you can cross a tiny pedestrian bridge to the infamous Ca's Patro March restaurant. If you’re not ready to ball out on a fancy Mediterranean seaside dinner, continue up the path from the beach and connect to a network of cliffside trails. Most routes are well shaded yet all offer spectacular views of the majestic blue waters. We had to get a bit creative making the route loop back to the start (off-road at your own risk) but the detour granted us an encounter with some friendly sheep and hidden look out tower. After making it back into town, top your journey off with a dinner or coffee and pastry at Sa Font Fresca Deia.

Within "You-should-probably-rent-a-car" Distance from Palma:

Sant Elm Hike

I was so looking forward to this hike in Mallorca as one of my lasts before I had to go back to the US for a while, and while I'm sure its breathtaking a majority of the year, the weather was not in our favor this insanely windy, cloudy February day. Nonetheless, it was still amazing to get some fresh air, movement and be amongst the trees exploring a new place. We might have had to use our imaginations a bit to appreciate the sea views beyond the fog, but the 6 mile loop did allow my friend and I plenty of time to catch up on our recent travel adventures at a resonantly leisurely pace. We stumbled upon wildflower blooms, an old castle ruin site and a herd of goat. Typical Mallorca things - including the little step ladders that must be traversed at random points along the trail. So if the weather forecast is looking a little dicey the day you were planning to head over to Sant Elm, don’t let it stop you from going. There was still plenty of beauty and nature to be explored even with the clouds. But, if you are lucky enough to make it on a sunny day, perhaps throw in the Sant Elm (check name) to your itinerary. The trail head is a short walk from here, making it - what I would imagine to be - the perfect post hike refreshment. 

Sa Calobra

This place was so cool! Just getting there was a beauty of an adventure as well. With twisting roads, bridging arches and reservoir pit stops - this day trip is a must do. Starting from Bar Platja Sa Calobra beach grab a cafe para llevar for the easy mile walk along the beach. Soon you’ll reach a tunnel that will lead you though the cliffside - don’t worry, it’s well lit and even has a paved path throughout it. The other end of the tunnel opens up to the most insane river bed canyon. Here you can access to a pebbly beach if you’re feeling like chilling or doing a bit of cliff jumping - made easy by the stairs carved into the cliffside, or you can hike deeper into the slot canyon. The last option is not for the faint of heart or weak of knees. You’ll have to physically climb over large boulders and a lot of loose rock. My friends and I turned back after a half mile in, thinking it was better to take our chances with the medusas for a swim back at the beach where we started. No stings! This time.

Formentor/Pollença 

So yes, medusas (aka jellyfish) are quite a real threat when it comes to swimming in Mallorca. I failed to mention them amongst hazardous wildlife when discussing solo adventure safety - but if you’re exploring in the winter seasons, you’re supposedly in luck! Or so we thought. Until my friend got stung, not once, but twice. So be aware of your surroundings, but also note the stings isn’t life threatening. We learned that the best thing you can do it try to scrape out the venom from the bite site with a credit card or something of the like. Oh, but otherwise, this route - amazing! Cape formentor is a Mallorca icon. You cannot miss it along with the beautiful Playa Formentor. The hidden gem of this day trip however, was Cala Murta. You might just make friends with the local donkeys that trek along the paths with hopeful swimmers - the medusas though? Not quite as friendly.

La Victoria

My first car rental adventure started with an easy pick-up at the Palma airport - also a short 10 minute bus ride from the city center - and took me to a land of wind, sea and lots goats. Answers to a few questions I had as an American prior driving in a foreign country that you're maybe wondering as well - 1) Yes they drive on the same side of the road. 2) No you don't technically need an EU driver's license to rent a car, but it's a good idea to have one incase you were to get pulled over or have any accidents. It's a simple online application and only cost 45 euros for a year-long permit. 3) The being said, yes, driving on the island is relatively safe and the roads are, for the most part, well-maintained. Therefore, 4) No need for a four-wheel drive car. In fact, try to avoid renting a larger vehicle as parking on the island is tight. Especially since there is only so much that can be done in terms of space with such a rugged mountain landscape to navigate around when accessing some of these incredible hiking destinations. La Victoria is no exception. Reaching the trail head will require driving through some narrow, windy seaside roads so use the terrain as an excuse to slow down and take in the views. The hike itself will start just west of the Petit Hotel Hostatgeria La Victoria. Park here, from where you may have to hop a fence or two to reach the start of the route (welcome to Mallorcan hiking) but then you'll be on your way. This route is complete with castle ruins, constant sea views and an old church look out just before completing the the 8.5 mile loop. And the end, treat yourself to a cana at Restaurante Mirador de la Victoria.

Acludia Run

A short - but very memorable run along the prestine beaches of northern Mallorca marked my last run of my first Mallorcan stint. Acludia is known for it’s white sandy beaches in the north of the island. These beaches also just so happen to be lined with a boardwalk, perfect for, you guessed it, a run! Better yet, there’s tons on docks jutting out into the water if you want to divert your path a bit to really surround yourself in those Mediterranean turquoise waters. All the more tempting for a post run dip. Want to throw some cycling into the mix? Ironman hosts a 70.3 triathlon here every spring as well.   With the beach being the main attraction here, it makes sense that a ton of beachside bars and cafes have popped up along this seaside as well. Perfect for a post run treat or brining along your own Mercadona beach picnic to enjoy instead, which IYKYK the latter is truly always the best option.