Running in Edinburgh: Scenic Routes, Royal Mile Views, and Local Eats on a Magical Scottish Getaway
- Holly Opatz
- May 8
- 5 min read
This past week, I reunited with one of my dearest high school friends, who journeyed across the pond with her husband (also a dear friend) and their 9-month-old baby (my newest little friend) to explore the UK. From castles to peaceful village streams, medieval cemeteries, pub pints, haggis, and brisk seafront mornings—this trip felt like stepping into a real-life Harry Potter world.
Stockbridge: Our Cozy Home Base
We stayed in the charming Stockbridge area, a neighborhood brimming with coffee shops and bakeries. Each morning, we found ourselves going for seconds just to attempt to try them all. It was the perfect quiet escape for the hustle and bustle of the city center, yet still a walkable distance from everywhere we wanted to get to.
Morning Run to the Sea
On our first morning, I set off for a run toward the sea, passing by the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh. Continuing along Ferry Road, I reached the sleepy seafront, where a nicely paved, flat path runs alongside cobblestone streets. I ran along the water until I reached Leith, a quaint seaside neighborhood of Edinburgh. We later returned to this cute little village for a pint on the sunny terrace of The Granary.
What Goes Down, Must Come Up.
Or something like that, I thought to myself as I struggled up the hill back toward Edinburgh proper. I made my way toward Princes Street to catch a glimpse of the Royal Mile once again. When we first arrived at the Edinburgh Waverley Train station, after an easy four-hour train ride from London, I was absolutely blown away by the first sights I was greeted with. Castles nestled upon jagged cliffs, churches with steeples reaching the clouds, grasses so green my brain couldn’t even comprehend the intensity of the color. Even the elementary schools looked like mythical palaces. I came to find that the Royal Mile includes landmarks such as:
Breakfast Delights
Finishing my run, I headed back home—thankfully downhill—where I met my friends for breakfast at Conway and Sons Coffee. You must try the Meaty Breakfast Bun here! We topped off our meal with a cinnamon bun to go from Twelve Triangles - can’t be getting hangry.
Exploring Old Town
We spent the remainder of the day getting lost in Old Town, with a stop along the vibrant Grassmarket for the best fish and chips I’ve ever had at Bertie’s. We couldn’t pass up a tour of the Edinburgh Castle, though we all agreed that the highlight of the day was walking through Dean Village. Conveniently, we stumbled upon the Water of Leith Walkway that led us right back to our Airbnb. Once there, we were too tired to head back out, so we opted for takeout from Franco Manca - because how can you possibly go wrong with sourdough pizza.
Interval Workout Along the Canal
According to my training plan, this morning called for an interval workout—something I typically avoid while traveling. But I woke up surprisingly motivated, and with a little help from the Strava gods, I discovered the Union Canal: a gem of a route that winds westward out of the city, offering a perfectly flat, uninterrupted paved path that feels tailor-made for tempo efforts.
To get there, however, I had to climb—steeply—out of Stockbridge and past the bustle of the city center. My legs were definitely feeling the effects of the previous day’s miles, and that uphill start didn’t exactly set me up for success. But once I reached the canal towpath, it all felt worth it. Lined with ivy-covered stone walls, cheerful houseboats, and quiet water reflecting the early morning light, the Union Canal offered a peaceful and steady rhythm that helped me lock into the 800-meter repeats.
They weren’t my fastest intervals ever, but I got the workout done—and that’s a win when traveling. I wrapped up with an extended cooldown jog through Princes Street Gardens…because I still couldn’t get enough of those Royal Mile views.
A Taste of Scotland
Back at the Airbnb, I met my friends for breakfast at Toastology in our Stockbridge neighborhood. I was pleasantly surprised by the Haggis Breakfast Toastie—a delighlfully toasted sandwich complete with egg, cheese, and a traditional scotish type sausage. I actually am just now googling what haggis is all composed of now and think if I would have read this ingredient list prior, I may have stray away from this description: a savory, crumbly mix of sheep’s heart, liver, and lungs minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, and spices. Yummy. After unknowingly scarfing down my breakfast of rare sheep organs, I topped off my coffee at Books N Cup, the coziest little nook to catch up on some life admin. Then it was laptop shut time - an afternoon connecting with nature awaited us at Arther’s seat.
Volcanic Hikes
This hike was easily accessible by city bus - each trip just 1.75 pounds and easily payable by card when you hop on board. The accessibility mixed with the most perfect spring weather made the start of the trailhead a bit crowded, but that hardly took away from the experience. Arther’s Seat is an extinct volcano that offers amazing views across all of Edinburgh and beyond. Even better, the wild flowers were in full bloom! Not only did they add a brilliant pop of color to the already intensely green landscape, they also filled the air with a sweet, honey-like aroma. We basked in the spring time glory on a grassy patch just below the summit, enjoying a picnic of cheese, apples and a little bit of sunburn. I could have died there happily.
After the hike, we caught a glimpse of Holyrood Palace, where on a trip back I would have liked to book an afternoon high tea time. Instead, we opted for an ice cream at Sip and Scoop, filling our water bottles (very American of us) with the Scottish taps along our walk there —amazingly fresh!
Gals Night Out
For dinner, I was able to sneak my friend away from the baby for a couple hours for her first night out since becoming a mom. It wasn’t anything more crazy than a walk across the street from our Airbnb to Hector’s for a pint, some pub trivia, and steak pies, but it was the perfect end to the trip. We reminisced on our 15 years of friendship and how much has changed yet how we’ve always been able to keep in touch and pick up right where we left off —These days, usually in different states and countries. I’m so grateful to have a childhood friend that shares my sense of adventure. We chatted a lot about how different our lives would have been had we both stayed in Minnesota - sure, we may have seen each other more often, but I don't think our friendship reunions would have taken us to places as magical as Edinburgh. Until next time!
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