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From Buda to Pest and Everything in Between: Fitting a long run into a long weekend in Hungary’s most iconic city.

To stick with my marathon training plan or take a spontaneous weekend solo trip to Budapest? Why not both?! I actually cannot think of a better city to knock out a double-digit mileage long run. With dedicated pedestrian paths lining both sides of the Danube River, an island encompassed by an outdoor running track, and the infamous thermal baths to restore your sore muscles post run - Budapest is a distance runner’s dream. The joy the rubber track on Margaret Island brought me is unmatched by any other European city run I’ve embarked on. I was simply blown away by the beauty of Budapest. Though I was even more mind blown to learn that the city’s name comes from the joining of the two historic towns on either bank of the river, one named Buda on the west side, the other named Pest to the east. Every square inch of either river bank street is decorated in gorgeous architecture ranging from Baroque style castles to Roman ruins, all while still being surrounded by lush greenery of the stunning Danube River bluffs. A goulash dinner complete with traditional live Hungarian music the night before at Porc & Prezli turned out to be some pretty decent run fuel. I also couldn’t argue with the free pre-run breakfast at the perfectly located Maverick Hostel where I stayed. My post run meal at Szimply Brunch was one for the books as well.




My eighteen mile running route linked here encompassed most of the city views I wanted to see. Starting from the Jewish Quarter, I marveled at the gorgeous buildings, taking in the peace of the quiet morning street. I then made my way toward Margaret Island via the Margit Hid bridge. Aside from the running track which was the highlight of my entire trip, the island boasts beautiful shaded paths, gardens and fountains alike. After making a solid 10k effort around the island, I headed towards Buda, running along the river until reaching the Petofi Hid bridge. Here I crossed over to Nehru Park and was greeted with another beautiful river side pedestrian path. This led me all the way to Arpad Hid bridge which spat me right back out at Margaret Island - because I couldn’t resist a return trip. All along my entire route, I was afforded views of castle hill, the parliament building and tons of river side grassy parks. A lot were previewed, however, on the first afternoon I arrived in Budapest when I wasn’t entirely prepared to head out for a run yet. Sometimes a nice leisurely walk can be a great way to get your bearings and scope out running routes for later as I did here. I wandered across just about every bridge between Buda and Pest and even had some stamina to hike up to Citadella, a historic fortress atop of Gellert Hill offering panoramic city views. Nonetheless, some sites are better visited while wearing non-athletic attire and not dripping in sweat, such as the infamous thermal baths and night out on the town to name a couple.


Thermal Baths:

  • Széchenyi Baths: the most famous bath house in Budapest - The yellow building one you’ve probably seen in all the pictures. I can’t speak it the experience myself, since I decided to forgo this one after hearing mixed reviews about the authenticity and crowds. It also happened to be the most expensive one to buy an entrance ticket for and further from the city center, but it is a Budapest icon and surely not a wasted experience if this option seems to best suit your interests.


  • Rudas Baths: the one with rooftop views that I really wanted to try but unfortunately was always sold out whenever I looked. Science tells me that means it’s the best one. So if you’re hoping to make it to the truly highest rated thermal bath house in Budapest, be sure to book your tickets here in advance. Also - check with your hotel or hostel for any discounts when you book through your accommodations.


  • Gellert Baths:  At last I settled on Gellert for my first Budapest bathhouse experience and this place hit the spot right on arrival - Beautiful outdoor pool and thermal bath; tons of lounging chairs to lay out on the sundeck and take in some rays; there’s even a poolside bar and cafeteria. The real kicker for this one though for me was the indoor baths ranging in temps from can’t-even-stand-this hot, to I can’t-stand-this-either cold. A bath, sauna, cold plunge, repeat series was exactly what my post-run body needed.


  • Lukas Baths: I enjoyed the baths so much the first day that I really wanted to try another one. And if I’m being honest, it was about all I could handle after crawling out of my hostel bunk at 1pm after an all-nighter out at the ruin bars. I thought the sauna, cold plunge, thermal bath cycle might help me sweat out the prior nights gin and tonics. It kind of worked. In the least, it afforded me the opportunity to try a more local-vibe bath house which required a nice long walk, taking in fresh air and day views of that pretty parliament building again. I met some friendly Hungarians in the sauna (slightly uncomfortable place to meet strange middle-age men) that spoke English with me in between my visits between the sweltering box of a room, the cold plunge and outdoor whirlpool bath.




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This little extravaganza was the origin of the previously mentioned gin sweats. After a very wholesome day of running and relaxing at the spa, I felt that a river boat booze cruise with a bunch of other backpackers would nicely round out the trip. I would highly recommend the two hour boat cruise complete with a DJ and multiple bars on deck, followed by party bus transportation to one of the infamous Budapest ruin pubs if you’re up for a bit of degeneracy. I still managed to culture myself a bit despite the inherently reckless nature that comes with all-you-can-drink party barges. Taking in the views of the Hungarian Parliament at night, its brilliant yellow lights casting a soft yellow glow across the water, I learned it was voted the most beautiful building in the world. Fact or not - I can’t say I disagree with that statement. Then there were all the people I met that night from all over the globe - there’s always so much to be learned from having a conversation with someone from a different country than your own. After the boat docked us back on land, we shuffled into the party bus as a new group of international friends, destined for the ruin pubs. These ruin pubs are bars that had been transformed from decaying buildings left abandoned after World War II. Considering this, if you end up staying out until sunrise singing karaoke in one of them, you can write it off as a part of the “cultural experience.”



But don’t miss all the other truly rich history Budapest has to offer as well. After recovering from my night out, I made sure to see the Buda Castle up close and personal before my early flight out the next morning. I would 100% recommend making the trek up here at sunset. The city colors are absolutely breathtaking during golden hour.  There is also a tram to the top of the hill if your body is still suffering from either your Budapest long run or night out on the town. Before calling it a day, be sure to grab a chimney cake, a traditional hungarian pastry, to round out your Budapest experience.


A long weekend in Budapest was the perfect blend of running adventures and cultural exploration. I’m glad I didn’t let my daunting marathon training long run prevent me from booking the trip. Whether you’re strolling along the Danube with its historic landmark views, unwinding in the thermal baths, or indulging in local cuisine and night life, this city has something special for every traveler and runner. As you lace up your shoes and hit the streets, you'll find that Budapest isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a city to experience, stride by stride.

 
 
 

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