A Run Through History: The Ultimate Running Route Through Rome
- Holly Opatz
- Apr 10
- 6 min read
Rome wasn’t built in a day — but you can run through thousands of years of its history in under 2 hours.
This run with was more than just a workout. It was a moving tour through the Eternal City, weaving past landmarks that have stood the test of time, guided by the flow of the Tiber and the hum of early-morning city life.
Why Run Rome?
To be honest, the real inspiration for this trip was watching both Gladiator movies back-to-back. I had always wanted to visit Rome eventually, but the horror stories I had heard of street so busy you can hardly walk hadn’t put it at the top of my travel wishlist. I must say though, this city far surpassed any expectations I had. Perhaps it was catching the first direct flight of the season from Palma for a long weekend getaway, the perfectly sunny spring weather we were graced with or freshly blooming lavender trees - but the few days spent in Rome couldn’t have been more spectacular. Lacing up my running shoes the morning of our first full day here, in a place where emperors once walked, is quite a surreal feeling. While tourists lined up for photo ops, we were able get to experience the city in motion — before the crowds built, while the streets are still golden with morning light. Our 15k loop was the perfect way to see a preview of Rome: no bus windows, no tour groups, just us and the city, one stride at a time.
The Route: A 15k Tour Through Time
Vatican City
We stayed to the Maison Candia Luxury House in the Partí neighborhood, just outside of Vatican City. Properly fueled from last night's pasta dinner at Ai Balestrari, though maybe a bit dehydrated thanks to the free limoncellos from the cheery owner we made friends with, we grabbed a quick Italian espresso from The Loft, then started our run from the world’s smallest country. St. Peter’s Basilica rose ahead, but instead of queuing with the crowds, we turned toward the river. (We did end up coming back for a self-guided another day - ten euros for stairway access to the breath-takingly painted church dome and rooftop views - 10/10 would recommend. It was a short wait for at-the-door tickets if you arrive before 8 am).
Tiber River Path
You can either opt to stay on city street level and follow the Tiber River and experience the early morning bustle of monks and nuns commuting to the Vatican, or take one of the multitude of staircases that connects you to a nicely paved pedestrian path, right along the riverbank. We ran a bit of both options, with views of Castel Sant’Angelo all along the way. The river path goes for 20 some kilometers in both directions from Vatican City, however, we made our way back up to street level after a couple kilometers in order to cross the bridge over to Piazza del Popolo.
Trevi Fountain
After admiring the gorgeous square of Piazza del Popolo, we made a bit of a detour from our well well paved path towards the Trevi Fountain. Yes, it was crowded with tourists. Yes, we saw pick pocketers in action. And yes, we witnesses too many close calls of cars running over pedestrians, but the beauty of the fountain was absolutely magnificent and far surpassed any expectations I had from the Lizzy McGuire movie. It's definitely not a stop to shy away from. Shame we weren't prepared with a coin to toss in the fountain — tradition says it guarantees your return. With the way this morning run was going however, it didn't take belief in some legend to tempt us to want to make a tradition of an annual Italy trip.
Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II
Heading back onto our main route of Via del Corso, a wide, smoothly-paved street lined with tons of retail stores that you can stock up on your Italian leather and linen from, we were happy to have some space and even ground to pick up the pace a bit. Eventually, this road will spit you right out at Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II a massive work of architecture built to honor the first King of a Unified Italy. I was blown away by the sheer size of this building and the pristine condition it’s been kept in. Though a paid entry is required to see some of the exhibits inside, the stairs can be climbed for free for a spectacular view of the city. Something to note however, many museums in Rome can be accessed for free the first Sunday of the month.
Roman Forum
Next, we skirted along the edge of The Roman Forum — where Rome’s ancient political and social life once thrived. Ruins spilled across the landscape here like a stone maze. It was amazing seeing them in the early golden hour light, imagining the life that used to once fill this space so many years ago. It’s sincerely difficult to try to wrap your mind around how an ancient civilization was able to construct something so grand without of the comforts of modern day technology - and these days I can’t even get a guy to come out and fix a leak in my kitchen sink.
Colosseum
Passing The Forum, you’ll begin to see the Colosseum come into view. No matter how many photos you’ve seen, nothing compares to rounding a corner and seeing The Colosseum come to life before you. We ran a loop around it, feeling the weight of 2,000 years of history in each stride. As much as I loved experiencing The Colosseum and Forum in running shoes, I felt called to go back and really immerse myself in these incredible historic wonders, and while I highly recommend this - do NOT book ahead online for entrance! We got scammed by a fake website that looked so official I couldn’t believe it when the ticket entrance person said our 50 euro receipts were worthless. Thankfully, my Citi® / AAdvantage® Platinum Select® World Elite Mastercard® card was able to refund me the cost. Better yet, all of the lines to buy tickets at The Colosseum entrance were rather quick and significantly cheaper. It should cost only 18 euros for entrance to both the Colosseum and Roman Forum. If you're seeing prices significantly higher just for entrance, double-check to make sure the website is legit!
Circo Massimo
Passing by the Arch of Titus on a runner’s high after cruising down the steady hill outside The Colosseum, we made our way to Circo Massimo, an ancient stadium once used for chariot racing. This allowed us to mix in some different terrain from apart from the pavement and cobblestone with it’s lose gravel tracks. It was here that we hit 10K, our originally planned distance goal, but weren’t ready to stop yet.
Teatro di Marcelo to Piazza del Compidoglio
A short distance further, we stumbled upon the “mini Colosseum” also know as Teatro di Marcello, one of the oldest surviving open-air theaters in Rome. The run from this remarkable work of art to Piazza del Campidoglio, an elegant plaza situated atop a hill, is a quick but memorable stretch that blends ancient history with Renaissance elegance. The climb up to Piazza del Campidoglio is no joke, but the wide staircase ascends at a manageable grade and worth every step for the panoramic city views it offers.
Pantheon to Piazza Navona
After a much easier decent, we came upon the awe-inducing Pantheon. Still perfectly intact after nearly two millennia, the Pantheon is an architectural marvel. We ended up coming back to a terrace here a few days later to enjoy a coffee from Bistrotal Pantheon in the sun and a lunch of schiacciata (a flatbread sandwich typical of the Tuscan region) from the infamous All'Antico Vinaio. The last landmark on our route, Piazza Navana, was another stone-throws away. I made an extra loop running around this dramatic square, marveling at the spectacularly constructed Fontana del Nettuno - a marble fountain depicting Neptune and an octopus.
The last part of our run circled us back to Sciascia Cafe, where we treated ourselves to an endless breakfast of Italian treats. It wasn’t an all-you-can-eat buffet by any means, but the way we kept ordering coffees after juices after pasties and Roman pizzas, it might as well have been. Our post-run appetites even warrented the elderly Italian woman sitting next to us to comment "mangiare, mangiare, mangiare" complete with eating hand gestures, to let us know she was surprised by the amount of food we were consuming.
We had no shame however. In fact, we continued the day with gelato from Giolitti near the Spanish Steps, wandered into Trastevere for aperitivo, and wrapped up the evening with an all-you-can-eat Roman feast at Dar Botarolo. For €20, we sampled a lineup of traditional dishes, surrounded by locals, and far too much pasta — though next time, I’d probably ask ChatGPT for a top dinner spot near wherever I’m staying instead.
But honestly - It’s hard to go wrong. Whether it was the ancient stones beneath our running shoes or the soft buzz of an outdoor trattoria, Rome lived up to every bit of its legend. From Vatican City to the climb up to Piazza del Campidoglio, each step revealed another layer of history, beauty, and charm. Running gave us a front-row seat to it all — and now, I get it. The hype is real. Rome is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, and there's no better way to experience it than on foot.
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